How to Install Bifold Closet Doors

One of the most common closet doors is the bifold door. Recently I installed a couple of raised panel bifold doors and found the task straightforward to do. Described below are some how to tips on installing interior wood bifold doors.

First, the closet door opening should be trimmed out prior to installing the bifold doors. The trim usually consists of 1”x5” boards nailed to the 2”x4”s and then trimmed our around the edges with some type of colonial casing window or door trim.

Measure and Purchase your Bifold Doors

Measure the closet door finished opening (height and width) and hold onto these dimensions.

Next visit your local home improvement store and purchase the appropriate number of bifold doors you need for the closet. In many cases you will need two doors. Select doors such that there combined width is 1 inch less than the closet door opening. Also, select a door height that is 1-2” shorter than the height of your closet door opening.

Install Metal Rail Assembly

Included in each bifold door package should be a long metal rail assembly. Secure this rail to the top of the closet door opening using the screws supplied. The rail should be centered in the middle of the closet door opening and one of its ends should butt up against one of the sidewalls of the closet. Note that the side of the rail that mounts nearest the sidewall should have an adjustable plate with a hole in it. This is where the closet door will hinge on.

Install the Floor Bracket

Next install the floor bracket such that it rests up against one of the sidewalls. Use the screws that came in the door packaging. The floor bracket will have a saw toothed cut out that should rest on the floor.

Insert Dowels into the predrilled holes on the Bifold Door

Insert the plastic dowels into the predrilled holes on the Bifold Door. Note that there are three holes in the bifold door and that there are specific dowels for each hole.

One of the plastic dowels should have a screw assembly that can be turned. This dowel should be placed on the bottom of the bifold door to the side nearest the wall. The screw will allow you to adjust the height of the door.
Another dowel will simply be a plastic rod of approximately 2 inches in length. This dowel should be mounted into the top of the bifold door furthest from the hinged area.

Finally, there should be a dowel that has a spring assembly in it. This dowel should mount in the top of the bifold door nearest the closet sidewall.

Install the Bifold Door

With all the rails, brackets and dowels in place, install the door into the rail and bracket assemblies. It works best if you insert the top of the door into the rail assembly and then slide the bottom of the door into the bracket assembly. Note that the spring-loaded dowel should be inserted into the hole located in the plate assembly of the rail.

Adjust the Height and Location of the Door

If the door needs to be raised or lowered, simply adjust the bottom dowel with the screw assembly by turning the screw.

If two doors are required to enclose the closet door area, then you may need to shift the doors horizontally. You can do this by adjusting the plate assembly in the top rail and by shifting the bottom screwed dowel in the bracket assembly.

Installing Bifold Hardware

After the Doors have been installed and adjusted it is time to add the doorknobs. If the doors do not come with the holes pre-marked or drilled, then you will need to find the center point of the panel furthest from the sidewall. Once the center point has been found and marked, drill an appropriate hole to enable the doorknob screw to slide through. The doorknob should screw onto the doorknob screw.

Note, that when finding the center point of the door, you will have to measure the height and width of the door to calculate the center point.

Install Closet Door Guide Brackets

When installing two bifold doors, you may want to install Closet Door Guide Brackets. One bracket is installed on the inside of each door such that when the doors close the to Guide brackets interlock with each other. These guide brackets help ensure that the doors stay flush when closed. The brackets should be mounted about 1 foot off of the floor.

With the guide brackets in place you have completed the installation of your bifold doors.

How to Fix a Loose Towel Rack

If you have children, you have probably had your bathroom towel racks pulled out from the wall at one time or another. It is usually not all their fault, however, as frequently towel rack brackets are not always properly installed. Frequently loose towel racks occur due to the towel rack brackets not being securely fastened to a stud or a butterfly screw not used when there isn’t a stud.

To fix a loose towel rack, first remove the towel rack from the towel rack brackets. Usually there is a small common screw that needs to be unscrewed to remove the towel rack from the towel rack bracket.

Next, remove the loose towel rack bracket from the wall. While removing the bracket observe what the screws were screwed into. Frequently they are screwed into plastic screw holders that fit snuggly into the sheetrock. These devices are typically used when there is no stud for the screw to secure to. Make sure that these screw holders are snug and secure in the sheetrock. Most likely, however, one or more of these screw holders are the problem.

Using a screwdriver and a pair of pliers pull out the plastic screw holder.

Once removed, you have a couple of options.

If the hole in the sheetrock or drywall is still relatively small, you can use a slightly larger plastic screw holder and larger screw. However, prior to inserting the new larger plastic screw holder into the hole, first squirt a nice stream of glue into the hole. You can then screw the towel rack bracket back onto the wall. Let the bracket set over night, prior to reassembling the towel rack to the bracket.

The alternative to using a larger plastic screw holder is to use a metal butterfly screw assembly. Simply hammer the butterfly portion of the assembly into the hole, such that it’s flange is flush with the wall. Then secure the bracket to the wall, by inserting the screw through the bracket hole and into the butterfly assembly. The butterfly screw assembly when tightened will flair out on the backside of the sheetrock wall and hold the bracket tight to the front side of the wall. You can then immediately secure the towel rack back onto the bracket.

Installing Wooden Shelves in Your Closet

Installing wooden shelves in a closet is a straight forward task that any homeowner can do. Tools required for hanging wooden shelves include a saw, hammer, level, measuring tape, centerpunch and pencil.

To install wooden shelves simply measure the height from the floor to where you want the shelve to sit. Make a mark on the wall.

Next using your level, put the level on the mark such that the bubble in the level is centered. Make two additional marks next to the level. You should now have 3 marks that are in perfect alignment. Repeat this process so that the side and back walls each have these marks. By placing your level on an angle between the side wall and the back wall, and on the marks, you should be able to confirm the marks on each wall are level with each other.

Next, install along the back wall 1"x3" trim. You will need to cut it to length and secure it with finish nails. Make sure the nails are nailed into studs (2"x4"s). Repeat this process with the two side walls. Then sink the nails with your centerpunch.

Next, cut to length a piece of closet board. Closet board is made out of particle board and has a rounded over smooth edge in the front. You can obtain this at any home improvement center.

Lay the closet board onto the 1"x3" wooden strips and you are done.

Should an Above Ground Covered Pool be Pumped Out When it Rains

I have heard conflicting opinions on whether or not a Covered above ground Pool should be pumped out after a heavy rain. Historically I have just let the water sit there and have never had a problem during the winter.

Any thoughts on this would be helpful.

Winterizing a Vacation Home

Unlike winterizing your main home, winterizing a vacation or summer home effectively means closing down the home for the winter. However, winterizing a vacation home or summer home really only involves a few basic tasks that can be completed in about a day by a homeowner.

Shut off the Water System and Drain the Pipes

Since most vacation or summer homes that are winterized will not be heated, the most important task to perform is to turn off the water system and drain the supply lines.

The water system can typically be turned off by simply throwing the pump switch to the off position on the circuit panel. Some wells also have a mechanism several feet down that can be turned off to enable any water in the underground pipe to drain back into the well. If your well has this mechanism, a tool should have been provided by the water pump installer that allows you to do this. It is effectively a rod about 4 feet long with a T handle at the top. Basically the rod is inserted into the well head and turns a valve to drain the water from the underground supply line back into the well. Most wells do not require this however, as the well supply line is located several feet under ground. Thus it is safe from any frost concerns.

Next, water should be drained from the supply lines. First turn the faucets on and leave them in the on position.

Since water will and should remain in the toilet and sink traps, an anti-freeze solution must be added to them to prevent freezing and pipe cracking. Also, the toilet tank should be drained of any water as well to prevent the tank from cracking.

Turn off the Heating Supply

Turn the heating system to the off position. Turning down the temperature setting on the thermostat is not good enough. The switch at the furnace or the circuit panel should be turned to the off position to ensure the furnace does not inadvertently go on during the winter months.

Remove all Food that could Spoil or Freeze

The refrigerator should be turned off, unplugged, and emptied of all contents. Likewise, anything in the kitchen cabinets that could freeze or spoil should be removed.

Unplug all Appliances

To prevent the possibility of damage due to thunderstorms it is best to unplug all appliances in the vacation home.

Prevent Rodent Infestation

Various rodents will attempt to get into your vacation home during the winter months. It is best to leave a few boxes of Decon around the home to prevent them from taking up permanent residence.

Storing Boats and Removing Pipe Docks

All boats need to be removed from the water. Similar to the home, all of the boats should be winterized as well.

Once the boats have been removed, the entire dock should be removed from the water and stored high up on shore. The pipes should not be left in the water, as they will be damaged by the ice. The damage frequently happens in the spring when “Ice Out” is occurring and large blocks, similar to ice bergs, shift and move along the shore line.

Rake Leaves and Debris Away from the Home

It is important to rake the yard, with particular attention made to removing leaves and other debris from around the foundation. Left to sit during the winter months, this material would otherwise become a collection area for ice and water, and become a haven for small four legged friends.

Properly Store away all outside Lawn and Yard Furniture and Tools

Clean all outside lawn and yard furniture and store it inside the home or shed or garage. Likewise winterize the lawnmower and properly store it away for the season.

Finally lock up the home, enjoy the winter and think of warm weather in the spring.

How do General Contractors Calculate Home Addition Costs?

When General Contractors develop home addition building costs for a home project, their estimate usually consists of two parts - Labor and Material. There is also a hidden cost factored into both these numbers as well - General Contractor Profit. Typically a General Contractor is looking to make between 20-30% profit margin on his material and labor costs.

Typically the General Contractor should be able to turn around a home addition cost estimate within a week as they frequently have a database of material costs and they know their labor rates. Frankly, once they have your requirements on your home addition project, they can plug the specifics into their home addition cost estimator or calculator spreadsheet tool and have a good home addition cost estimate on your project within minutes.

Carefully read over all of the specifics of the home addition cost estimate, looking particularly at the high price material items. Frequently you can negotiate on these costs or you can consider alternative materials, e.g. window manufactures or types. Regarding the labor costs, you may consider providing your own sweat equity to reduce these costs.

Also consider purchasing HomeAdditionPlus Bid Sheets for your next Home Addition Project. HomeAdditionPlus Bid Sheets are Home Addition Bid Sheets that help you through the contractor selection process and will save you money. You provide the Home Addition Bid Sheet to the prospective contractor and they fill it out and return it to you. Questions are written so that you can assess if the contractor is right for your project. Click here to learn more about HomeAdditionPlus Bid Sheets.

Have you put on your Home's Halloween Costume Yet?

With Halloween only a couple of weeks away people are not only buying their Halloween costumes and Halloween Make Up for themselves, but also for their homes.

Halloween pumpkins and candy are being purchased by homeowners, and the traditional Halloween makeup and costumes for homes are being installed, e.g. scarecrows, goblins, ghosts and other ghoulish characters. I especially like the Halloween sound effects when I am out with my kids going door to door in the evening.

Halloween is one of my favorite holidays. Probably because it so simple to plan for and to enjoy. Relatively speaking it requires little shopping and little cooking, which are big pluses in my book. In addition, it is just plain and simple fun and each year I get to dress up as something different. I also enjoy seeing the latest in Halloween costumes as the tricker treaters show up on my doorstep.

So if you haven't started already, get out the Halloween decorations and costumes and get into the spirit. And be creative this year. Think of some unique Halloween costume to where at the door to greet the kids.

This is one holiday that has yet to be too commercialized and I am going to continue to enoy it while it lasts!!

Is the Housing Market Softening?

I have been hearing from a number of sources that the real estate market in the New England area is beginning to soften.

A couple of real estate agents that I recently spoke to indicated that it is taking upwards of 60-90 days to now sell a home. A year ago, many houses on the market were on for less than a week and were involved in bidding wars between potential buyers.

I guess I am not surprised with increasing interest rates and sky high oil costs. The housing market has been over-inflated for a number of years now and has been ripe for a correction.

The question is, how far will they drop and will the drop occur throughout all of the United States or only in selected areas. Any thoughts on this subject would be appreciated.....

Shingling a Roof

Shingling or roofing a house is a major undertaking for a homeowner and extreme caution is required. This said, a Do-It-Yourselfer homeowner can shingle or roof their own home with a little knowledge and the right tools.

Required Tools

In order to roof a house properly and safely the following tools are needed: Ladders, Roof Jacks, Hammer, Carpenters Knife, Chalk Line, and preferably a compressor or nail gun.

Estimating Materials

Typically the roof is measured in squares, where a “square” represents 100 square feet. There are eighty shingles in one square. However, when you go to your local home improvement store shingles are usually sold in bundles. Usually three bundles equal one square, however this can vary slightly pending the shingle style.

Measure the area of your roof (length x width) and divide by 100 to get the number of squares required. Then multiply this number by three to get the number of bundles of shingles required for the job. Add an additional 10-15% for spare, leaning toward the 15% if your roof has hips and valleys.

Drip edge, ice and water shield, asphalt paper, flashing, roofing nails, and hip and ridge vents will also be required. The Drip edge comes in various lengths. Measure the outside perimeter of the roof to calculate the drip edge required. The ice and water shield, asphalt paper and flashing come in roles. Use your roof square area calculation for determining your asphalt paper requirements. Typically only one or two courses of ice and water shield is required along the bottom/eave of the roof and in the valleys. Calculate 2 times the length of the roof and valleys to estimate the amount of ice and water shield required.

Typically each shingle will require 4-6 roofing nails and flashing usually comes in 16” wide roles or 6x6 or 8x8 square inch steps. Step flashing is typically used around chimneys, dormers and side wall junctions. Hip and Ridge vent will vary with local building codes, however a rough estimate would be to measure the length of your roof’s hip and ridges and take 75% of this figure for calculating the amount of vent required.

You should now be able to fairly accurately calculate the cost of material for roofing your home.

Installing the Drip Edge

Nail the Drip edge around the entire outside perimeter of the roof.


Apply the Ice and Water Shield Membrane and the Asphalt Paper

Apply the ice and water shield material such that it is flush with the drip edge. If the climate in your area has harsh winters and/or significant annual rainfall, add a second course of ice and water shield for added protection. You should also add the ice and water shield membrane in the valleys.

Next apply the asphalt paper to the entire roof, starting from the bottom and working towards the ridge. Make sure each course of asphalt paper overlaps the lower row by several inches (effectively shingling with the asphalt paper).

Install Flashing

Install metal flashing in all of the valleys. Step flashing around chimneys and dormers will be added as the shingles are installed.

Installing the Shingles

Start the shingling at the bottom of the roof (or at the eaves). Lay a starter course such that the bottom edge of the shingle lines up flush with the drip edge. The starter strip is a “tabless” shingle that you make from the regular shingles using your carpenter’s knife.

Lay your next course of full shingles over the first course, staggering the starter joints from the first course to prevent water penetration.

Note: Sometimes you may want to start with a full or a partial shingle at one end. In either case, you want to try to avoid small shingle pieces at the far end of the roof. To prevent this, divide the length of the roof by the length of a full shingle and assess how much of a shingle length you want to start with. Ideally you do not want to have pieces smaller than 12”.

Use a Chalk Line

To ensure your shingle courses run straight use a chalk line. Measure the finished reveal on your shingles. Usually this is about 5 inches. Then make marks every 5 inches on the gable ends of the roof. Snap a chalk line between the gable ends at each pair of marks all the way up the roof. This will ensure that you shingles run true and straight as you progress up the roof with the courses.

Vertical lines should also be snapped every 3 to 6 feet to ensure your tabs maintain alignment.

Use of Roof Jacks

After 3 or 4 courses of shingles have been installed using ladders, roof jacks may be necessary to access the upper courses. Roof jacks are steel brackets that hold planks in position for you to stand on. The roof jacks should be securely nailed through the decking and into rafters to ensure that they will support your weight.

Shingling Valleys, Chimneys, Skylights and Dormers, and Step Flashing

Shingling the valleys and installing flashing requires extra care. The shingles, typically coming from two intersecting courses when entering a valley, need to overlap each other such that no water penetration occurs.

Skylights, chimneys and dormers must be step flashed (step flashing is interleaved with each course of shingles) to ensure water is kept from penetrating the roof.

Adding the Ridge Vent and Caps

To complete the roofing project, ridge vents need to be installed. These are nailed to the top of the ridge and then capped.

The ridge cap prevents water from entering the home via the ridge vent, while still allowing the house to breath. The ridge cap is constructed out of individual shingle tabs that have their unfinished corners cut off at 45 degree angles. Each modified shingle tab, is nailed such that it overlaps the previous piece as you work your way down the length of the ridge vent.